How to Fit a Bra, Bra Fitting Instructions

Finding the Right Bra Size and Fit

Bra fit is one of the most important elements of finding the right bra to provide good support and a nice, flattering shape. Nearly 80 percent of women are wearing the wrong bra size, so if you haven't been fitted lately, it's time to examine your bra fit:

Bra Sizes consist of two measurements: the back size, and the cup size.

How to Measure Bra Size - The Band
How to Determine Bra Cup Size
Bra Fitting - Common Questions
Bra Fitting - Dressing for Your Body Type
How can You Tell if a Bra Fits Properly?
Finding the Proper Fit for Maternity Bras

Determining Band Size on a Bra

The back size on the bra is determined by the size of the torso, and consists of a number measurement like 32 34, 36, etc. To determine your back measurement, have a friend bring a tape measure snugly around your rib cage directly under the breast, as demonstrated in Figure 1, line A. This is where the band should sit when the bra is fitted properly.

• 33" and Below: Add 5 to the measurement. For example, if the measurement around your rib cage is 29, the bra band size is 34.
• Above 33": After 33", add 3 to the measurement. For example, if the measurement around your rib cage is 35", your bra band size is 38.

Verifying the Band Size:

To verify that you've measured the band size correctly, measure around the top of your breasts at the point indicated by the line above B in Figure 1. This measurement should be the same as your total back size calculation. For example, if you've measured 29 around your rib cage, and added 5 to get 34, the measurement at the top of your breasts should equal 34".

Determining Cup Size on a Bra

The cup size on a bra is the letter measurement in the bra size listed after the number. In a 34B, 34 is the band size and B is the cup size. The cup size is the size of the breast itself.

To determine the cup size: After you've done the back measurement and determined your band size, have someone bring the tape measure around the fullest part of your bust, as demonstrated by Line B in Figure 1. Perform this measurement while wearing your best-fitted bra. Subtract the band size from the measurement you get here, and the remaining number corresponds with your cup size. For example, if your band size is 34, and you measure 37" around the fullest part of your bust, the number that corresponds with your cup size is 3". The chart below lists common cup sizes per measurement by manufacturer.

The chart below should be used as a guide only. Sizes actually vary slightly from one manufacturer to the next. Goddess, Elomi, Empreinte, Prima Donna, Freya and Fantasie of England are the most generous in the cups. Difference in inches between the bust measurement and the backsize, click here for a size grid showing measurements.

*Goddess Classic Styles - Maximum Coverage Full Figure: 106, 110, 386 have larger frames with additional coverage and additional hooks and eyes. Medium Coverage Full Figure: 204, 304, 511, 1304, 650 have full figure frames featuring less coverage.

**Goddess Classic Bridal - 391, 689, 690.

***Goddess New Styles - Medium Coverage Full Figure: 1001, 2000, 2010, 2066, 3010, 3050, 3910, 4050, 5056, 5810, 5850, 5900, 5910, 8010, 9150 feature small to large cup and back sizes with frames offering less coverage than the Goddess Classics. Bridal styles medium coverage: 710, 712, 3930, 6930, 8202.

^For Fantasie of England, Freya, Fauve and Panache - featuring smaller back sizes and larger cups:

Your calculations will be a little different. First, measure the back size as described above, if it is an even number add 4 to get your back size (32+4 = 36 backsize), if it is an odd number add 5 to get your back size (29+5 = 34 backsize). Second, measure the fullest part of the bust as described above.When you have all three numbers (first measurement, backsize calculation, and bust measurement) subtract the first measurement (not the backsize but the actual measurement) from the bust measurement to get your difference.For example if you measure 29 inches under the bust, you have a 34 inch backsize. If you then measure 38 inches around the fullest part of the bust, you have a 9 inch difference (38-29=9). Use the 9 inch difference to determine your cup size below.

Special Notes:

1. The size bra you wear may vary between styles and manufacturers. We suggest you use your best fitting bra (that is not overly stretched or worn out) as a starting point.

2. This is a general guideline only. You may need to adjust your selection depending on your body type, the bra style, and the brand of bra. See our fitting tips below for some helpful hints.

3. All measurements are for "inches".

4. See above for differences in Goddess brand sizing.

5. Tatiana brand bras tend to run small, so if this is the case for you, try a larger band size while keeping your normal cup size.

Common Questions When Determining Bra Fit and Size

What if the back size comes out to an uneven number?
Band sizes are listed in even number increments. If the band size comes out to an uneven number, try the next size up.

What if the bra size doesn't provide the correct fit?
For people who are between sizes or can't find the correct fit, try going up in cup size and down in band size, or vice versa. For example, if a 42D is too snug in the band, move up to a 44 band in a C cup, or a 44C. Keep in mind that bras by different manufacturers fit differently, and your cup size may vary slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer. For example, Tatiana brand bras tend to run small, so you may need a larger band size with your normal cup size with this manufacturer.

What if the cup size doesn't fit?
Cup sizes actually vary somewhat from manufacturer to manufacturer. Goddess and Fantasie of England tend to have slightly larger cups than many other manufacturers, so your cup size may vary between manufacturers. You may need to experiment with different bras from different manufacturers to find the best fit for your body.

Figure Types Alter Your Bra Fit

Different figure types have different types of bodies, and bras best-suited to one figure type may not work well for another figure type. These are some examples of the most common figure types, and the best types of bra fits for these figures:

Small-Busted
AA to "small B" cup sizes. Breasts with this body type are firm and spread farther apart. Bras for this body type cup breasts for light support and natural shaping. Bras that work well for this body type aren't well-suited for full-figured women with larger busts.

Average Bust
B to C cup sizes. These are the most common bra sizes, and many manufacturers design bras for these sizes. Depending on age and overall figure type, breasts may be firm or fleshy. Bras in these sizes provide shape and support.

Full-Busted
C and above cup sizes. In young women with these cup sizes, breasts are fuller, firmer and require good support. Good bras for this body type lift and mold the breasts for attractive shaping. More mature women in these cup sizes tend to have larger breasts with less elasticity. Complete cup coverage for shaping and firm support are the best bra characteristics for mature full-busted women.

Large Sizes
38-50 B and above cup sizes. Women in these sizes have a "plus size" figure and typically wear a women's dress size of 14+. The band size is larger, but the breasts may have the same size and proportion as women with smaller frames, and therefore may not require larger cups. The best bras for full-figured women are specially designed to provide comfort, shaping and support in these sizes.

How Can You Tell if a Bra Fits Properly?

A well-fitted bra should provide good support and shaping and be comfortable to wear. Look for these attributes to determine whether your bra fits properly:

• The cup should completely contain the breast; push-up and demi-wire bra styles excluded.
• The breast should not spill over the top, sides or bottom of the cup. If the cup doesn't fully contain the breast, the cup size may be too small.
• The cup should fit smoothly without gaps or puckering. These things indicate that the cup may be too large.
• Your bra should be snug but not tight around your body. If the bra leaves marks, the band may be too small. If the back of the bra rides up on the back, the band may be too large.
• The center of your bra should lie flat against the breastbone. If the center of the bra doesn't lie flat, the cup may be too small or the band may be too large.
• The straps should support your breasts comfortably without pressure or leaving marks on your skin. Optimally, your straps should be adjusted to the middle setting or less so they can be tightened as you wear the bra and the bra stretches. If the straps slide down, the bra may be too large.

Finding the Proper Fit for Maternity Bras

For additional details, you can view our full Maternity Guide. However, fitting for maternity intimate apparel follows the same guidelines posted above, with a few notes specific to pregnancy:

• When you reach the last trimester of pregnancy, shop for nursing bras to assure an effective and lasting fit.
• Maternity bras should support the breasts, but not bind under the breast. Constricting the breast can affect milk flow.
• Breast change in size and shape during pregnancy. Choose a roomy cup to accommodate these changes and fluctuations; particularly to expand once milk comes in.
• The upper side of the cups should be loose, but should still provide the proper comfort and support. Refitting may be necessary as breasts increase in size during pregnancy.
• Try on bras with a breast pad or shield to check for fit.
• The bra should fit comfortably when fastened with the middle set of hooks. This accommodates changes to size as the pregnancy progresses and after delivery.